Monday 16 August 2010

Vintage at Goodwood

Tonight we’re going to party like its….., well anywhere ranging from the 1940’s to the end of the 80’s.

A long period to cover, and a lot of high expectations to exceed.

This weekend, among the fabulous roaming hills of Goodwood, West Sussex a new festival was born. Vision of Wayne Hemingway (of Red or Dead fame) and Lord March a weekend of anything Vintage, music, clothing, cars, food… as Cole Porter said ‘Anything Goes…’ (no wait, that was the 20’s, dammit!)

However, I digress. The festival consisted of a pop up high street (anyone else see the design link to the High Street in Chichester?! Mock ‘cross’ and all) walking down the high street with British favourites from John Lewis, Body Shop and Doc Martins no less. With a few surprises (Primark, anyone?!) thrown in for good measure.

The outside of the vintage shopping experience was where the magic was happening however, lines of Vintage inspired stores as well as serious Vintage shops held their ground amongst the hungry bargain hunters and a few thunderstorms to boot (well it wouldn’t be the Great British Summertime without a little rain!)

A little further afield, and you found the musical stages and tents, old theme park rides, a roller disco, a vintage food market, including a Waitrose and even a skate park (which puzzled me mostly…) however, it was a fabulous set up with many things to do and see throughout the days.

There was some fabulous costumes, some serious Vintage outfits that had been researched down to the very thread of the garment and a few Vintage high street knock offs…

It is here I have my problem with the (newly) coined fashionable vintage term. Vintage clothing, is a pure love. It should be, I spent months researching into it and 10,000 words writing about it. However, the nasty high street replicas that appear to be popping up in these more recent years, are a slight bug-bear of mine. Including the fact that a few years ago you could find a decent piece of ‘second-hand’ clothing for a pretty decent price, now however, that same piece of ‘second-hand’ clothing has a new label of ‘vintage’ and the price has gone up two-thirds. I’m just wondering if we could bring back the term ‘retro’ and see if that has the same effect. The person who hit onto this ‘vintage’ trend was either pretty smart or opened the fashion world up to something I don’t think many would have predicted.

I shall at this point, step graciously down from my soap box, to comment on the fabulous range of music that was showcased at this festival, no less, The Faces are my firm favourite of the weekend and my appetite has been severely whetted for the ever imminent Reading Festival. However, it is The Feeling who I take my hat off to (well, if I was wearing one at this point, I would be taking it off..) I read somewhere, (quite possibly in the Times) that it is at points like this, when the economy is bad and the general mood of a country is low that a festival like this Vintage one is exactly what a nation needs to lift the mood (and at £55 for a day ticket, I would seriously hope it could!) however, The Feeling did a pretty awesome job of getting a field full of young and old(er) rocking away, however it wasn’t until Tony Christie came on to perform the classic(?!) ‘(Is This The Way To) Amarillo’ that the whole field was smiling, dancing and you could generally see the spirits of those who had been rained on and were cold and were probably pretty shattered, were lifted. (Even I have to admit, this cynical writer, who can’t stand that particular song, after years of bar work and months of Saturday nights, listening to said song, after it being requested many a time…)

To conclude, it was a fabulous event, damped only slightly by the typically British weather until the typically British attitude of old, to carry on regardless shone through. Definitely one I will revisit in the future. However, it will never take the place of the Goodwood Revival, the only True Vintage festival event.


photos taken by yours truly
(ok not the first, that would be seriously clever!)

Keep Calm and Carry On

Quite possibly the best article I have read all year, from this months Elle, by Alice Wignall. Good advice if you can take it, hard to follow, but worthwhile in the end? I guess that would depend on your overall objectives.


Passivity: It works. But would you let him call the shots?

It sounds pathetic and smacks of being a ‘surrendered girlfriend’, but taking a passive stance might be the best relationship trick you ever learn.

It’s a nightmare scenario. Quite literally, in fact, the person you love turning around and saying that, on reflection, they’re not sure they feel the same way you do. It is the kind of stomach-churning spectre that haunts our dark and midnight hours, that will usually vanish in the glare of rational morning light. But, when insomnia strikes and your imagination turns over this vision, how do you believe you’d react? Would you call him a loser, tell him he doesn’t know a good thing when he sees it and leave the first chance you could, taking your dignity with you? Would you cry, beg, try to make him see the error of his ways?

Or would you just do nothing? That’s what Laura Munson did. One day, the man she’d been with for 20 years, her husband and the father of her children, told her that he didn’t love her and was going to leave her. Her reaction? She told him she didn’t buy it, that he should take some time and effectively ignored any further attempts to raise the subject. He went AWOL for a few months, then gradually started to reintegrate with his family’s life. Six months on, their marriage was healed.

Munson, a writer; contributed an essay on her relationship tactic to The New York Times. It was the top-read article for days following publication; the most-searched for feature for two months. It crashed the website’s comment section. She secured a book deal and the result – This is Not the Story You Think it is… A Season of Unlikely Happiness (Amy Einhorn Books) – has got commentators from Oprah to Newsweek to Time magazine asking: is doing nothing the new way to get what you want?

Instinctively, I want to say no. I want to believe in the modern model of empowered womanhood – a hybrid of Destiny’s Child songs, Tyra Banks attitude and Sex and the City – which tells us we’re worth it that we can do anything if we put our minds to it, that we should be worshipped all the livelong day and anything less than that is simply unacceptable.

But then I look at my own life, and I know it’s not that simple. For Laura Munson and I have something in common. In my case, I had been with the man in question for only a year or so, not married, no kids. But still, there was never a good time to hear what he was trying to tell me: that, though things were fine, though I hadn’t done anything wrong, he just didn’t see us together long term.

What did I do? I went out that evening, got drunk with my best friend, went back to m flat, got up the next day, went to work and didn’t mention it again. When faced with the biggest calamity of my romantic life to date – for I was very much in love – I was utterly passive. I did nothing.

This wasn’t a clever game plan. I was scared. Scared that if I raised the subject again, I’d meet the ultimate rejection: ‘We definitely should split up.” I was also scared that by over-reacting – or just plain reacting – by crying or screaming or demanding resolutions, I’d push him into a position from which there was no way back. Because there was something else that Munson and I had in common: like her, I just didn’t buy it. I was aware that he was trying to express confusion or uncertainty, perhaps that same ‘Hold on, am I sure about this?’ attack of vertigo we all get when teetering on the brink of commitment. What if I put him on the spot and, failing to express what he really meant, he told me to go? That would be a disaster, for both of us. Instinct was telling me that whatever it was he wanted, me out of his life wasn’t it.

Of course, I worried this was just wishful thinking. Friends raged at me for being a doormat, for putting up with shabby emotional treatment. Yet, I couldn’t quite bring myself to draw down the final, fatal confrontation. I drifted on and the days ticked over, then the weeks, then months/ when, half a year later, I raised the subject gain, he said, ‘What? Oh, I don’t think that any more.’ And that was it. We stayed together. In the end, being passive was the best way to fight for what I wanted.

The concept of passivity – especially in relationships – reeks of inequality, of Betty Draper levels of suppressed desires, of silent weeping and brave faces. But when things stop working, I’d say passivity is your friend. You might curl your lip, call me weak, but is it weak not to demand resolutions, not to insist on airing every grievance, not to heap fuel on already-smouldering resentments? Passivity is the art of giving thins time, letting them calm down and when you find yourself the wrong target of someone else’s unhappiness or confusion – not getting dragged into the situation. I still don’t know what was up with my boyfriend, though I’m pretty sure it wasn’t really anything to do with me. But if I’d turned drama queen on him, within five second it would have been.

I can count scores of friends who have resolved relationship dilemmas by being (accidentally) passive. While figuring out what to do, they find things work themselves out. I wonder if men quite like being left to make up their own minds. Fraught and fretful as our lives are, it’s a modern women’s way to leap on the first sign of failing in our other half and wrestle their issues from them, to resolve them ourselves – by ending the relationship, if we can’t think of anything else. At least, if you’re being passive you cant be patronising. It gives our partners time to think. Not communicating seems to get the message through.

It works other places, too. Take work, for example. Beyond the basic requirements of turning up, doing your best, and going for opportunities when they arise, is taking your foot off the pedal such a bad thing? Is there any need to shout about your ambition, to air every run-in with a colleague and – most crucially – to despair over every failure. I dread to think of the energy I used in my younger years wailing over my unfulfilled potential and the iniquitous rise of less-talented colleagues. Now, I do my best at my job, let the rest of it wash over me, barely think about where I’ll be in five years’ time and trust that it will sort itself out. The minute I started doing that, of course, my career started running more smoothly. Probably because I’m not a sullen, bitchy colleague any more, obsessed with my portion of the pie and who else has been nibbling at it.

There’s a feeling that passivity is a quality best suited to shy little girls hiding behind their mothers’ skirts. But, in fact, isn’t it the more mature approach? Think of the desperate wannabes on Big Brother. With their ‘I speak my mind’ and ‘I don’t put up with disrespect’, they’re the very opposite of passive. And where does it get them? Screaming their insecurities and low self-esteem into each other’s faces, no one can hear anything for all the noise. As Laura Munson said in her interview the Time magazine, ‘We live in such a reactionary society that we think, in order to be powerful, we need to fight. That’s a shame.’

Our self-obsession has reached such heights that our first thought when anything happens is ‘how do I react?’, as if only our reaction matters, as if action is imperative. What’s so wrong with inaction?

It seems barely permissible anymore. In her essay ‘Welcome to Cancerland’, the American writer Barbara Ehrenreich talks about how a breast-cancer sufferer must describe her illness in active terms – she is fighting, battling, surviving. If you say you just want to sit back and let the doctors do what they will, you’re not doing it right, says Ehrenreich. Even a cancer patient can’t be passive, it seems.

But there is power in passivity. Being passive doesn’t mean not stating your preference. It means recognising situation where your input isn’t needed, where it might actually be unhelpful. In relationships, it means not engaging in someone else’s psychodrama, nor giving oxygen to your own. And let’s not forget, at the heart of passivity is a little bit of aggression. What Munson did to her husband – and did I do this to my boyfriend, too? – is say, ‘Sorry, you’re not pinning this one on me’ and leave him to work it out. Passivity leaves people guessing, it deflects the issue back at them, and leaves you out of it.

Is it easy? Of course not. We’re all inured in the 21st-century cult of self-expression, the belief that nothing in the world deserves to be heard more than the thought that is currently drifting across out frontal cortex. Your feminist instincts will cry out. And is it painful, just to bite your lip and wait? Oh yes. But since when did that romantic notion, ‘ If only he knew how much I cared’, ever prove to be true? I’m not suggesting you sign up for a lifetime of servitude but, for a few months at least, the next time that nothing’s going right – do nothing.

A Dandy Accessory

Men’s brooches : A Fashionable Trend for Autumn Winter 2010

In comparison to the utter volume of accessories available in the women’s market, in complete contrast, there really aren’t all that many fashion accessories for men. And of those that do exist, quite often they are heavily associated with a sub-culture or movement that you may simply just not be interested in associating yourself with. Brooches for men are, however, one of the few men's accessories which can cross the sub-culture divides, are perfect for both Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter seasons, and are slowly making a come-back, Lord knows anything dandy and I’m likely to be all over it.

The Styles


As if taking their cues from the Cool Britannia revival, the most popular of men's brooches take their cues from vintage Anglo-Saxon, English and Scottish brooches, and old-world motifs such as stag heads.

Where To Buy

The men's brooches from the above picture are available from the likes of Urweg and Cooper-Hewitt.

If you're after a brooch from the Autumn/Winter 2010 men's collections then Yves Saint Laurent, John Varvatos, and Paul Smith all had offerings amongst their collections:

You also can’t beat brooches of the vintage kind (although vintage is a slightly taboo word for me right now.. more to follow on that); However, if it is vintage brooches you are searching for, turn to both vintage stores and eBay – just be prepared to spend a decent amount of time searching to find the perfect one. This isn’t a trend you can dip into; you’ll need serious commitment to find the perfect one.

Inspiration

If men's brooches are something you're looking to invest in, browse my inspiration board below.

Inspired by the work of Daniel P Dykes

Photos from style.com

For King and Country

Men's Military Fashion Trend 2010.

Introducing the Autumn / Winter 2010 evolution of the men's military clothing trend. (Fabulous! Who can resist a man in uniform anyway?!)

Thankfully (in my opinion) the 1980s fashion revival appears, for now, to be coming to a close. However, the revival on earlier periods, particularly the 1930s and 1940s, remains popular (Huzzah!)

Nevertheless, don’t quite get rid of those military inspired pieces, which have been influencing wardrobes of the fervent fashionista, from the past two years. Evolve them. Play down the over-the-top glam pieces taken directly from the 80s, and impart the classic military look with something far more historical, making the look far more relevant to 2010/2011 fashion.

The men's military fashion trend is nothing new to us, interestingly, looking back over fashion history, when the world is caught in war; fashion’s have reflected this by military influence style. Revived in 2008/2009 as part of a larger 1980s revival it had, the flamboyant style popularized by the likes of Adam Ant. This is not the case for Autumn 2010. Inspiration no longer coming from the 1980s, but to a generation when men were men, fashion has taken to the Second World War for stimulation. An era of rationing, clean cuts, functionality, and, of course, the dapper gentleman off to fight for King and Country.

Key Pieces

If you intend to indulge in the 2010 / 2011 interpretation of the men's military fashion trend (and I think you should!) there are two key pieces you'll need:

A greatcoat.

Colour choices here sit strongest with Army green and Navy / Air Force navy hues. The greatcoat can be single or double-breasted, and should be detailed with brass buttons. For genuine authenticity, find some antique buttons, on eBay or in vintage/second hand shops and pull out a needle and thread (or ask a friend very nicely)

However, there is always the option to purchase a vintage piece and have the cut altered accordingly. Further, the greatcoat can be belted or unbelted: it needs only to have a fitted waist.

However, please, please resist the temptation to buy an actual military coat, there are plenty of beautiful military inspired pieces and the current indie boys wandering around in their military (particularly Royal Marine) jackets look like they are either trying to recreate The Beatles Sgt. Pepper look, or are going to a fancy dress party. Neither of which is appreciated. Especially by the Royal Marines (one I know in particular it really hacks off…)

Aviator boots with shearling

It is worth mentioning that although shearling can also be applied to the collar of a greatcoat or an aviator jacket, it is worth noting that wearing both together, you're likely to be trending towards the fighter ace look, rather than a beautiful fashion inspired look.

Just to reiterate: Be cautious with the military trend, it is easy to move into the realm of costuming: being on trend doesn't translate to looking like you're off to a fancy dress party.

Designers to Look Toward

On the Autumn 2010 catwalks there is one designer who reigned supreme when it came to this new interpretation of the men's military fashion trend: Christopher Bailey. His work for the Burberry Autumn 2010 catwalk was second to none.

New pieces aside, don't forget that the Second World War was almost in the middle of the last century. Therefore, it's not all that hard to find vintage pieces from that era to infuse into your wardrobe.

Inspired by the work of Daniel P Dykes

Photos from Style.com