Sunday 12 December 2010

Hope in the Air

Not too long after my trip to the Pyramids, a mere two days in fact, I was back in Portsmouth to see an old favourite, in the form of Laura Marling.

Now, a little history, are you ready? The venue was none other than The Wedgewood Rooms. An absolute favourite venue of mine, tiny, dingy and always promises an epic gig. In fact, the venue where I first saw Reel Big Fish play. Now that really WAS a long time ago. This is the venue, is none other, than where rock legends Nirvana played their first ever UK gig, which set off a long-standing love affair with the infamous American Rock band. AND fact fans, if that wasn’t quite enough for you, I used to live on the very road next to The Wedgewood Rooms, none other than Harold Road (I was however BANNED from going and knocking on the door and seeing who lived in my old house. Boo.)

However, back to the music. The evening started with a support band called The Pins. A three-piece girl band, belonging to that newfound rockabilly subculture. Of 1940’s styling, their music was beautifully harmonised and wonderfully sung. They played a good set and plugged their EP and fan sites a good few times – they were good and they showed good potential, you could see from the fact that they were a tad samey in their songs that they are a young band, although many a band have progressed through a career of producing samey songs and succeeded.

Definitely a band, from more, I would check out, however I feel there may be a slight name change a-brewing, as after a few attempts googling I have found another band of the same name. Never a good start, when introducing yourself to the music world, I look forward to a time when more of their music is available.

The Pins

A few beats later and on came Laura Marling. Here I feel I must be honest, I was a tad worried about seeing Laura perform again. I saw her a long time ago, when she was supported by Jay Jay Pistolet. This was the first time I saw her perform and was in love with her style, the fact that she was so unassuming and you felt like she was really showing you a part of her soul.

Anyway, I was worried that since the likes of Radio 1 and the mainstream world have clocked on to her that she wouldn’t be as pure as she was before.

She opened with ‘Devil Spoke’, which was beautiful and moving and I was instantly reassured that this was one who would not be affected by the likes of ‘fame’. Laura then explained that the band would be playing a few new tracks, which she appreciated was annoying when you go to a gig, as she goes to gig’s herself and understands how it feels, however the new tracks were awesome and beautiful and everything you expect from a folk singer who has definitely found her way and is carving her musical path.

A heckler exclaimed partway through the gig ‘I love you Laura’ to which she was left awkward, a little unnerved and explained ‘I never really know how to reply when people shout things out’. You could literally feel the crowd simultaneously falling in love with her and offering her a hug.

The gig was beautiful, pure and everything I hoped it would be. Laura has the ability to make you forget you are in a sweaty, crowded gig and in fact takes you to another place entirely (admittedly, she makes me feel like I should be lying in a field, staring into the sky and smoking weed – but she just has that floaty folk vibe, I’m not a stoner, yea?!)

Another fabulous gig, by a girl who can only go onto the bigger and better things. The gig ended by Laura exclaiming, ‘We are trying to revolutionise the gig world and we believe we are not big enough to do an encore.’ Explaining, maybe if (they) were as big as Madonna (they) could warrant standing off stage for 5 minutes before coming back on to play. Something she was doing the first time I saw her.

I have to say, in a world where some musicians seem to believe they are God’s gift to the world it is so wonderfully refreshing to see an artist so humble and completely unassuming of her talent. Long may she continue to produce some beautiful music.

Laura Marling

Hearts and Minds. Dreams and Music

Hello blogging world… I apologise for the delay in me writing this, I’m having a few life issues – one of those being a lack of my mac, its poorly and so has been taken away to be fixed, which will take UP TO 4 weeks. I’m on day 6 and I feel a bit like I have lost a limb, possibly two. However, this does not detract from the fact that I have blogs to write… so here goes (on a pc that I’m trying to get my head back round to using)…

A good few weeks ago now or so ago, after a bizarre day at work my Mum, Dad and I travelled to P-Town to the Pyramid Centre to see Seth Lakeman doing his current rounds promoting Hearts and Minds.

Now here, I have to make a slight confession, up until going to the gig, I hadn’t really heard a lot of Seth’s music. I could tell you quite a bit about him, but my pure reason for getting these tickets (apart from the fact they were a birthday present for my dad…) his support act was Delta Maid. One of my new music crushes. So primarily my reason for this particular gig was to see her, the first time I’ve been more excited by the support act rather than the main attraction.

I can’t say that the Pyramids are my favourite of gig venues, I think I have been rather spoilt of the most recent venues I have been to. It was a fine sized room and all, but the acoustics were naff, however, Delta came on and performed beautifully. You really can’t beat a girl on stage with her guitar singing country/blues. Interjected with the stories behind the songs, including Any Way I Want To and Stop Worryin’ Baby.

A blonde Liverpudlian, you would be hard pressed to believe this girl was of British origin when she starts to sing. However, Liverpool is famous for its musical greats and this girl and her guitar are no different. I now have two copies of the same E.P. one downloaded and one hard… I can’t begin to tell you just how excited I am about the album release due in March.

I have read many things written about Delta on the net, in an aim to get to learn more, however most seems to be the same article re-written, so here I am to write something new. This girl is totally awesome, she has an amazing style which she is (as the internet tells you) self-taught… aren’t the best always the self-taught ones? (Lennon and Clapton are the two that currently spring to mind) She has amazing lyrics that really hit home and a beautiful singing voice and she is definitely hotly tipped as ‘one to watch’, well in my humble opinion she is.

All of a sudden the atmosphere shifted and on to stage came 4 young guys, who played a fabulous set to a crowd who were just as up for the performance, if not more so than the band themselves. The band settled in to their first few tracks and it showed all the promises of a fabulous gig. Which it most definitely was.

I have never seen someone play the violin and sing. At the same time. Does that not seriously impress anyone else? Surely the violin is one of the most difficult instruments to learn to play, most can only master a noise to replicate that of a cat being strangled or possibly worse, but here was this gorgeous sea shanty music coming from some of the best violin playing I’ve seen in a long time…

I have to admit, being somewhat of a novice where Seth was concerned, by the end of the gig I was well and truly involved and had it not been for the lack of my Mac, his extensive album range would most definitely already have been on my iPod.

Without a shadow of a doubt two artists I will be seeking out in the future (in fact, Seth is playing, not too far from me on the night of my next birthday… so definitely a possibility of a celebration to be had….)

Tuesday 16 November 2010

Flight of the Concorde (2)

On my quest to fit as many gigs into one period of my life as possible November 10th lent itself to a trip to Brighton-Town in favour of the Mystery Jets.

My apparent knowledge (or lack thereof) of Brighton gig venues being long forgotten (hey, 14 was a long time ago, gimmieabreak, yea?) meant finding the venue was a mission in the cold but a story for another time perhaps.

To Concorde 2 we eventually arrived (note to self, always follow the scene kids – they know where to go) a tiny venue tucked away on the sea front. A fabulously quaint place, which had an expectant excitement quibbling through it.

The first support act was Tribes. A band I have heard a lot of noise about. Once I had initially gotten over the fact the lead singer held a large resemblance to Carl Barat (never a bad thing) I could see why I had heard a lot about this band. They had a really great sound and clearly one or two friends in the audience. Some lyrics were a tad, um, young (?, maybe) for my taste. Songs about a friend’s girlfriend etc. BUT the potential to be an awesome band, who really got the crowd going.

Next on were Is Tropical. With interesting fringe headbands(?) around their faces. However, despite the unique head attire, also another awesome band. Their sound was all too familiar, songs that I couldn’t (and still can’t) quite place, but I think that only added to their success. Different to Tribes and Mystery Jets and not really what I was expecting, which I think is why it worked so well.

An electro/dance/indie act (yea, I’m running with that!) Again they did an awesome job and really got the atmosphere pounding.

As a frenzied anticipation passed through the room, finally it was the turn of the Mystery Jets. Opening with Alice Springs they set to work on promoting their newest album Serotonin, which was extremely well received and possibly better known than they expected, the crowd instantly dancing around and singing along.

A few songs played from Twenty One, including Young Love and Hideaway and the boys were just as up for the evening as the audience were.

Will took the lead with their collaboration with The Count and Sinden, asking the crowd “Are you ready to dance?” and dance they did. As did the band themselves.

When Blaine announced “Here’s one you should all be able to sing along to” as they struck up the intro to Two Doors Down. Again another track eagerly lapped up by the crowd.

Not the first time I have seen these boys perform, but most definitely their best performance to date. They were extremely tight and together. It always feels when watching the Mystery Jets like you have just stumbled across them jamming in their parents garage. There is always an air of fun surrounding these boys, they always appear to have as much fun playing as the audience do watching.

Announced many a time that “You guys have made this a fucking awesome evening” from Kai and with that and a three-song encore, the evening was at an end. Even though they played the best parts of both Serotonin and Twenty One, the Mystery Jets have the ability to leave you wanting more.

These boys are most definitely destined for great things. But then I am horrendously biased.

(Photos of Mystery Jets and Tribes - Taken by Yours Truly)


On to the next.... Delta Maid and Seth Lakeman, Portsmouth Pyramids... to be continued...

Tuesday 26 October 2010

From Farm Boys to Boy Band

Daniel Dylan Wray finds the evolution of Kings of Leon plain offensive

I’m not ashamed to admit it, I used to fucking love Kings of Leon, and pretty much everyone I knew did, even if they won’t admit that now. I was seventeen when their debut album came out, and it being the first year I could drive, it was an integral part of that summer and subsequently my adolescence. It felt fresh, raw, edgy and damn right good; granted, this was to the ears of a naïve seventeen year old, but, this accompanied by their mysterious background and downright weirdness (like a horror show Brady Bunch crawling out from their barn and being brought up on rock ’n’ roll, moonshine and little else) meant they had everything that was enticing about a young new band to a young new man. I mean, their album was called ‘Youth & Young Manhood’!

Now fast forward a few years – past albums two and three that, regardless of personal taste, undeniably showed genuine progression, musically – and then, fuck me, what went wrong? As their popularity and bank accounts have grown, so too it would seem has their sense of self-importance and self-worth (highlighted in one single night when Caleb moaned that he was cold to a Reading Festival crowd who weren’t cheering loud enough). This band used to be weird. Genuinely weird! I remember watching the NME awards years ago as they grunted their way through interviews looking either completely unwilling, unable to speak, or just really stoned. They seemed to not care about such things; publicity, it seemed, was a downside to being in a band – a necessary evil that allowed them to do what they loved for a living. Then things went so sour. The wretched ‘Sex on Fire’ was the catalyst, transforming them from parameter, semi-commercial guitar band to fully-fledged radio-friendly unit shifters.

They went from stoic, morbid and frigid performers to being in a video wearing vests and standing in front of flames as they pouted for close-ups.

It seems that with this meteoric rise came the arrival of their ego’s and boy did they come big, throwing any sense of ‘what’s best musically?’ out the window and replacing it with ‘how can we become even bigger?’. Their popularity continues to soar and their musical integrity continues to plummet, perhaps making it not too surprising that the band have been adopted by the Oasis crowd now that the Gallagher’s aren’t talking.

Most damning, though, is the band’s refusal to take a break; to go a year without releasing a record; to step out of the spotlight and practice the old absence makes the heart grow fonder trick, even if time can also make for a better album.

It’s as if they fear being instantly forgotten and no longer being considered current or relevant, or perhaps rich. The band’s new album is out this month, which means they will have been doing the album release/promo/touring shtick for maybe three years straight, and its hard to believe that the motive for that is creativity.

They’ll no doubt be back at all the summer’s festival’s again next year, being decidedly un-weird and dodging what they once were, which incidentally was an interesting, publically evasive and promising young band. The U2 comparisons suddenly become pertinent as a result. Remember the young Martin Hannett produced, post-punk U2? Me neither, but they did once exist, and as wholly believable rumours circulate that the other band members have had to try and intervene with Caleb’s personal music writing sessions now that he’s worked out if he writes the songs on the album by himself he gets all the royalties and money, you have to think that not even Bono is that ruthless.

A little article found in this months Loud and Quiet by Daniel Dylan Wray. A paper I have loved for a while, for many reasons. But this one just forefronted itself ahead of the others. This, a rant, I have had on many occasions, in varying states (quite often in a club, when Sex on Fire has come on in the small hours of the morning) and leads rather nicely into an issue I currently have.

A new found favourite artist has been dropped by his record label, the artist in question is Alan Pownall. The label, Mercury. It is a shame that within the music industry there only seems to be one focus. Money. As it was once sung, ‘money makes the world go round’ and whilst that is true, especially in these ever-tough financial times we appear to be sailing through. It saddens me that the main focus is no longer the music and is in fact just the money. Whether that’s the artists or just the record labels, I’m sure the line between becomes rather blurred in some places.

Alongside this fact, is one that in fact, talent has been over passed for shows for worthless individuals to showcase themselves to a majority who don’t actually have an interest in music, but in fact just regurgitate the crap that the mass-media force feeds them, believing that it is decent. Whilst this happens, there are real artists, with real talent and a passion for playing who are ignored because the people with the power to do something impressive, ignore the power they have to influence and inspire and instead decide that they won’t make enough money out of selling someone who actually has talent and therefore result in selling music with scantily clad individuals gyrating about to promote their ‘musical abilities’.

Of what little influence I have here on this blog, I would like to promote a few AWESOME bands, who have some real talent and have inspired me, there is a much longer list which would include the likes of the Beatles/Stones and Clapton. But here I would like to go for the lesser know awesome individuals who really deserve the airtime.

Jay Jay Pistolet - http://www.last.fm/music/Jay+Jay+Pistolet

The Mummers - http://www.last.fm/music/The+Mummers

Lissie - http://www.last.fm/music/Lissie

Diane Birch - http://www.last.fm/music/Diane+Birch

Delta Maid - http://www.last.fm/music/Delta+Maid

Kassidy - http://www.last.fm/music/Kassidy

Alan Pownall - http://www.last.fm/music/Alan+Pownall

Polly Scattergood - http://www.last.fm/music/Polly+Scattergood

Andy Clockwise - http://www.last.fm/music/Andy+Clockwise

And. Just for the record. The first album I got when I passed my test – Arctic Monkeys - Whatever People Say I Am, That's What I'm Not. Now there’s a driving album.

Tuesday 19 October 2010

Third Times a Charm

First in the line up of a personal gigging marathon I am undertaking this Autumn, last week, the fabulous Scottish band that are Kassidy played at the intimate Borderline in Soho, London. As a new found favourite of mine, this was to be my third time in seeing the boys perform in 3 and a half months… obsessive? Maybe.

However, in my arguably obsessive state, I’ve been lucky to see these boys progress, even in that short space of time, which has to be said, is pretty exciting for the future.

Although slightly later than scheduled… all thoughts of lateness were swiftly forgotten once they struck up the opening to Night in The Box. There was a fabulous energy from the Glaswegian quartet, which was mirrored perfectly by the lively crowd of clear followers. Barrie-James crooned away across beautiful rifts and harmonies that filled the room effortlessly. With a fabulous grit to his voice, you can’t help but be mesmerised and affected in a rather powerful way that is only really felt live.

Although currently there are some pretty powerful forces across the board within the music industry, who specialise in a heavy folk with spectacular harmonies, these boys have a special way of capturing you with their performances and in my view would be hard pushed to be beaten at what they do.

A fine ending to The Traveller, in lyrics stating ‘This is where I wanna be’ I couldn’t agree more, there was nowhere else that evening I would rather have been. Filled with a real sense of passion and feeling, Kassidy show a real gratitude for a crowd who have come to listen and enjoy. These boys are serious masters at their craft. Looking back, to what understandably can only be described as a hesitant performance at the ICA those few months ago, it is extremely exciting to witness these boys coming out and blowing you away with the force of their music.

Performing a range of songs from their Rubbergum EP’s and a few new sounds for good measure, the set appeared to be headed at light speed towards its end.

An inspired end to the gig, which built up until the building, was fit to burst, with Hamish and Barrie-James who extended their musical talents to adding their own beats to the ending of The Betrayal. A trick which ended their superb Reading set in August. Watching three guys, beat their way on a drum kit to a fantastic build up of an ending, is something I defy you not to smile about.

Thankfully after only moments the boys came back to play their two song encore, ending in my personal favourite of Stray Cat. Another ace evening of music from a group of boys I stumbled upon by mere coincidence and now, without them my music collection would be empty without. The progression of this band in the past few months is astounding on its own merit. Lets hope they keep progressing on to the bigger and better things they deserve.

Band Members

Barrie-James O'Neill

Hamish Fingland

Lewis Andrew

Chris Potter

Kieran Logan – Drummer

Thomas McNeice – Bassist

Wednesday 29 September 2010

I can't have children. They might grow up to wear Jack Wills clothing.

My awesome mother whilst reading The Times today spotted a fabulous article that she left out on the side for me to read (she does that rather regularly- awesome really) However, this one is a cut above, seriously made me laugh. She knows my bugbear for companies such as this and therefore knew I would enjoy a rant by a fellow bystander who has been left behind in this madness.

......

I can't have children. They might grow up to wear Jack Wills clothing.
Sathnam Sanghera - Wednesday September 29th 2010, The Times



A few months ago I wrote an article for The Times magazine about wanting a baby. Male babyhunger was a neglected phenomenon, I complained. Too often men are portrayed as getting saddled with babies, when some experience broodiness as intensely as women. But I'd like to take it all back. I don't want children anymore. For one reason : I couldn't risk fathering offspring which grew up to become consumers of Jack Wills merchandise.
In case, like me a week ago, you have never heard the name before, I should explain that Jack Wills is a rapidly expanding fashion brand that has 1,700 employees, 36 shops in Britain and aims itself at posh students. How posh? Well, the shopping guru Mary Portas has remarked that "wearing Jack Wills is a mark of class, wealth, even education, and you very much have to be in the club", Polly Vernon has written in The Observer that "you know you're posh if you live near a Jack Wills store", while The Sunday Times recently revealed that one of the company's early marketing ploys was to send one of its signature hoodies to the head girl and boy of every public school in the country.
The company also sponsors polo events and yacht-club balls, has designed T-shirts for the Eton rugby tour, employs "a bunch of impossibly beautiful, incredibly polite brand ambassadors called Seasonnaires" to spread its brand message, runs shops that resemble boarding schools, and, frankly, the last time I took so violently against something I was 14 and reading about the death penalty.
The idea of a designer fashion label for students is preposterous enough, given that they already have one in Oxfam. But creating one for public school students is particularly bewildering. After all, they already have a uniform - a school one - and then, out of hours, they have plimsolls, flip-flops, golding baseball caps, brightly coloured polo shirts (collars up), dangly ear-rings, sleeveless puffer jackets, jogging bottoms, bangles and pashminas. The idea of slapping a Jack Wills logo and price tag on to this, the default look of every last Muffy, Hugo and Isabella Anstruther-Gough-Calthorpe, is pointless. And cheeky. And, as a social statement, really quite offensive too.
The posh have been mounting a comeback for some time. You can't move 50 yards in London without spotting something painted in Farrow and Ball's country house paint colours; Barbour jackets are back; our TV screens are graced by the likes of Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Kirstie Allsopp and Tomasina Miers; and you may have noticed that our Prime Minister, Chancellor and Cabinet are a bit posh too.
But the cultural manifestations of this poshness have until now been subtle, the politicians in question have arranged for the concealment of pictures of them in top hat and tails, and asking political candidates to shorten double-barrelled surnames. In contrast, Jack Wills, whose logo is nothing less than a pheasant in top hat and tails, represents something new and terrifying: the wilful celebration of inherited wealth and privilege.
In a time of economic distress this is crass enough, but the label exacerbates matters by mocking the working classes while doing so: adopting the hoodie, the symbol of the youth underclass as a signature item; selling an image of the world that is, in the words of The Sunday Times Style Magazine "sort of like Skins, but with nicer houses and pleases and thankyous"; and by nurturing the kind of fans who respond to criticism on Facebook pages with remarks such as: "Ur just jealous because we're not chavs and have good taste."
Indeed, it turns out I 'm not the only one who has taken against the brand. Jack Wills may have 131,679 fans on Facebook, but there are also 60,852 detractors belonging to a group called, "Why are you still in your PJs? Oh sorry, didn't see the Jack Wills logo", and another 22,557 affiliated to a page entitled "Jack Wills brings all the rahs to the yard, and they're like, put it on daddy's card."
The label, which claims it will have a turnover of some £90 million this year, is notoriously secretive and doesn't allow journalists much access. The owners of the company probably realise that if people knew about Jack Wills outside upper-middle-class towns such as Winchester, Aldeburgh and Reigate, it would spark mass civil unrest. There is one thing I can bring myself to admire about the company, apparently it flogs branded Jack Wills condoms. Which at least reduces the chances of its customers reproducing.

......

It is at this point that I would like to state my particular problem stems further than just Jack Wills, but in also its brand competitors with dark shops, club music blaring and fake shop assistants.... No names need mentioning.

Sunday 26 September 2010

The Devoured and I And Me

Since I left uni in May, I have been working part-time at London based, fashion design house, J.W Anderson. Originally born as a menswear company from a love of intensely dramatic aesthetics in a world inspired by combining sinister phenomena with a love of mystical characters from history and literature.

More recently, under the leadership of Melissa Stokes, the company has spread its infant wings to the land of womenswear. A natural progression for a men’s line inspired by women’s clothing. Jonathan was quoted in Vogue earlier this year saying ‘Think tomboy/tomgirl rather than unisex’.

My role within the company was widespread and varied. Each day presented something different. Eased gently into a world of production, creating orders of ‘Saints and Assassins’ the first womenswear collection, which is currently stocked in Liberty’s, Harrods, Hunting and Collecting and on Oki-Ni as well as ASOS and LNCC.

(photos of the collection in Liberty's)

As the days progressed into weeks and so on and so forth, the tasks I had accomplished ranged from sewing and embroidering to fabric and haberdashery sourcing and buying to working with the press office, run by A.I.

I was soon entrusted with pattern cutting, grading and toiling, which was wonderful to get back to the technical side that I enjoy so much.

We were then hit with the news that the new collection was to be sponsored by Swarovski Crystal, which was very exciting news – even more so when the crystals began to arrive in their thousands at the studio. I defy any of you to not want to play with oodles of crystal beads when the opportunity presents itself. We were all to become children in a candy store at the sight of the sparkly magic.

Among my list of errands (including banking and posting, believe me, I am the post master…!) I was also sent to the Arcadia Head Quarters, mother-ship of the British High Street, to meet with Head Menswear Designer for Topman Nick Paget. Alongside this, I was sent to the Swarovski Head Office, which was in line with walking into a very sparkly spaceship. If I ever wondered what (insert name of spaceship here) was like. Here was my opportunity to see. (Unfortunately I am not a space geek, epic fail I feel, however exciting nonetheless.)

One Monday morning, a good few months into my internship I was asked to head to Big Sky Studios. There I was to meet Matt and Jonathan who were working with Robbie Spencer (stylist of Dazed and Confused fame) directed by Sharif Hamza. Off I was sent, in a taxi, with £40,000 worth of crystal beads, a sewing machine and the ability to be on the set seamstress. It was a completely awesome day, most definitely one of the highs of my career so far. The efforts of which can be seen here…

(cheeky still from the video shoot)

On to the next… we then headed to the crazy world of creating the collection for fashion week. Over 30 looks, a mix of womens and mens, the womens to be unveiled earlier at Liberty’s, online and at Somerset House on the Saturday with the video as seen above. The mens to be shown at a catwalk show at Somerset House on Menswear Day.

(photos of the new collection in Liberty's)

A lot of pattern cutting, toiling, adapting and making went into the penultimate weeks before the show. Culminating in a fantastic show, at around 11.30am on Wednesday 22nd of September. Again, another day that shall remain a highlight of my life so far. Controversially 4 female models were sent down the catwalk during the menswear show, depicting the versatility of the Anderson brand. The clothes sparkled. The models looked fabulous and as always with these things, the show came together in the final moments of a frantic backstage.

http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/catwalk-fashion-shows/SS2011/Mens/london/jw_anderson/full-length-photos?page=1

(GQ Catwalk Photos and Write Up)

http://www.swarovski.tv/Content.Node/fashion/168912.php

(Video of the Catwalk Show)

And so, as quickly as it started it was over. And so, I believe it is now, as they say, on to the next.

Wednesday 15 September 2010

The Wrong Trousers

This is, without doubt, my most favourite time of the year.
Although 'this time of year' does in fact, not only come around once, but twice, there is just something, to me anyway, about the arrival of the new Autumn/Winter collections. And this season, this Autumn/Winter is even more exciting than usual. Maybe it's because I enjoy the idea (and process) of layering up in winter, may it is my love of tweed (and an ongoing, everlasting love affair with my leather jacket) or perhaps it is because in truth I actually prefer the cold. Whatever the reason, this new season's collections, magazine layouts and the opportunity to reinvent oneself for the foreseeable future fills me with a feeling of excitement.

There are certainly many trends that have caught my attention and imagination, however, there is one that started my infatuation for this season nicely. Trousers. Fabulous. It's about time the infatuation with leggings deflated. Whether long, wide, cigarette, tuxedo, harem or otherwise. Trousers were up and down the catwalks.
As a self-confessed tomboy, finding a suitable style for autumn should be a relatively easy task, no? No. There are plenty of fabulous options, as always high end are the better, with beautiful fabrics and better fits, however the high street too is awash with some awesome pieces. Which if like me, your sole current purpose for working is to pay for costly unpaid internships. The high street may just be the answer.

Now, I am aware that we are only a small part of the way through September and therefore styles are still set to come in (trust me, I tell my customers this information often enough - I should know! However, the simple fact is, I am inpatient.
So, in a (few) vain attempt(s) to find that perfect pair of trousers to take me through this transitional period , armed with my knowledge on this season, to the high street I have ventured. Unfortunately, to no avail.
Here is where a problem has arisen, when you are as fussy as I am and have the ability (just not the time) to make, finding my perfect pair has been an issue. As someone who's current trouser collection is rather on the thin side, extending my wardrobe, would be preferable and as I keep being reminded, I am no longer a student, therefore need a more grown up, professional wardrobe. So this was where I headed. However, of the styles I have chosen, I have been left rather frustrated. On the peg, awesome. On me, not so. Are they supposed to sit on your hips, or are they high waisted? Should that bit, really be there? And don't even get me started about the poor fit around your, ahem ... lady business... Let's just say, I know for sure, trousers are not supposed to sit like that.
Although there have been some pretty good candidates, none have so far survived being taken back. Although yes, I do have long legs, I really didn't think finding a pair of trousers would be so complicated.
I am slowly loosing the idea of trousers being my answer to my new wardrobe problems. Maybe I should just stick to my marriage with my jeans, after all, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Monday 16 August 2010

Vintage at Goodwood

Tonight we’re going to party like its….., well anywhere ranging from the 1940’s to the end of the 80’s.

A long period to cover, and a lot of high expectations to exceed.

This weekend, among the fabulous roaming hills of Goodwood, West Sussex a new festival was born. Vision of Wayne Hemingway (of Red or Dead fame) and Lord March a weekend of anything Vintage, music, clothing, cars, food… as Cole Porter said ‘Anything Goes…’ (no wait, that was the 20’s, dammit!)

However, I digress. The festival consisted of a pop up high street (anyone else see the design link to the High Street in Chichester?! Mock ‘cross’ and all) walking down the high street with British favourites from John Lewis, Body Shop and Doc Martins no less. With a few surprises (Primark, anyone?!) thrown in for good measure.

The outside of the vintage shopping experience was where the magic was happening however, lines of Vintage inspired stores as well as serious Vintage shops held their ground amongst the hungry bargain hunters and a few thunderstorms to boot (well it wouldn’t be the Great British Summertime without a little rain!)

A little further afield, and you found the musical stages and tents, old theme park rides, a roller disco, a vintage food market, including a Waitrose and even a skate park (which puzzled me mostly…) however, it was a fabulous set up with many things to do and see throughout the days.

There was some fabulous costumes, some serious Vintage outfits that had been researched down to the very thread of the garment and a few Vintage high street knock offs…

It is here I have my problem with the (newly) coined fashionable vintage term. Vintage clothing, is a pure love. It should be, I spent months researching into it and 10,000 words writing about it. However, the nasty high street replicas that appear to be popping up in these more recent years, are a slight bug-bear of mine. Including the fact that a few years ago you could find a decent piece of ‘second-hand’ clothing for a pretty decent price, now however, that same piece of ‘second-hand’ clothing has a new label of ‘vintage’ and the price has gone up two-thirds. I’m just wondering if we could bring back the term ‘retro’ and see if that has the same effect. The person who hit onto this ‘vintage’ trend was either pretty smart or opened the fashion world up to something I don’t think many would have predicted.

I shall at this point, step graciously down from my soap box, to comment on the fabulous range of music that was showcased at this festival, no less, The Faces are my firm favourite of the weekend and my appetite has been severely whetted for the ever imminent Reading Festival. However, it is The Feeling who I take my hat off to (well, if I was wearing one at this point, I would be taking it off..) I read somewhere, (quite possibly in the Times) that it is at points like this, when the economy is bad and the general mood of a country is low that a festival like this Vintage one is exactly what a nation needs to lift the mood (and at £55 for a day ticket, I would seriously hope it could!) however, The Feeling did a pretty awesome job of getting a field full of young and old(er) rocking away, however it wasn’t until Tony Christie came on to perform the classic(?!) ‘(Is This The Way To) Amarillo’ that the whole field was smiling, dancing and you could generally see the spirits of those who had been rained on and were cold and were probably pretty shattered, were lifted. (Even I have to admit, this cynical writer, who can’t stand that particular song, after years of bar work and months of Saturday nights, listening to said song, after it being requested many a time…)

To conclude, it was a fabulous event, damped only slightly by the typically British weather until the typically British attitude of old, to carry on regardless shone through. Definitely one I will revisit in the future. However, it will never take the place of the Goodwood Revival, the only True Vintage festival event.


photos taken by yours truly
(ok not the first, that would be seriously clever!)

Keep Calm and Carry On

Quite possibly the best article I have read all year, from this months Elle, by Alice Wignall. Good advice if you can take it, hard to follow, but worthwhile in the end? I guess that would depend on your overall objectives.


Passivity: It works. But would you let him call the shots?

It sounds pathetic and smacks of being a ‘surrendered girlfriend’, but taking a passive stance might be the best relationship trick you ever learn.

It’s a nightmare scenario. Quite literally, in fact, the person you love turning around and saying that, on reflection, they’re not sure they feel the same way you do. It is the kind of stomach-churning spectre that haunts our dark and midnight hours, that will usually vanish in the glare of rational morning light. But, when insomnia strikes and your imagination turns over this vision, how do you believe you’d react? Would you call him a loser, tell him he doesn’t know a good thing when he sees it and leave the first chance you could, taking your dignity with you? Would you cry, beg, try to make him see the error of his ways?

Or would you just do nothing? That’s what Laura Munson did. One day, the man she’d been with for 20 years, her husband and the father of her children, told her that he didn’t love her and was going to leave her. Her reaction? She told him she didn’t buy it, that he should take some time and effectively ignored any further attempts to raise the subject. He went AWOL for a few months, then gradually started to reintegrate with his family’s life. Six months on, their marriage was healed.

Munson, a writer; contributed an essay on her relationship tactic to The New York Times. It was the top-read article for days following publication; the most-searched for feature for two months. It crashed the website’s comment section. She secured a book deal and the result – This is Not the Story You Think it is… A Season of Unlikely Happiness (Amy Einhorn Books) – has got commentators from Oprah to Newsweek to Time magazine asking: is doing nothing the new way to get what you want?

Instinctively, I want to say no. I want to believe in the modern model of empowered womanhood – a hybrid of Destiny’s Child songs, Tyra Banks attitude and Sex and the City – which tells us we’re worth it that we can do anything if we put our minds to it, that we should be worshipped all the livelong day and anything less than that is simply unacceptable.

But then I look at my own life, and I know it’s not that simple. For Laura Munson and I have something in common. In my case, I had been with the man in question for only a year or so, not married, no kids. But still, there was never a good time to hear what he was trying to tell me: that, though things were fine, though I hadn’t done anything wrong, he just didn’t see us together long term.

What did I do? I went out that evening, got drunk with my best friend, went back to m flat, got up the next day, went to work and didn’t mention it again. When faced with the biggest calamity of my romantic life to date – for I was very much in love – I was utterly passive. I did nothing.

This wasn’t a clever game plan. I was scared. Scared that if I raised the subject again, I’d meet the ultimate rejection: ‘We definitely should split up.” I was also scared that by over-reacting – or just plain reacting – by crying or screaming or demanding resolutions, I’d push him into a position from which there was no way back. Because there was something else that Munson and I had in common: like her, I just didn’t buy it. I was aware that he was trying to express confusion or uncertainty, perhaps that same ‘Hold on, am I sure about this?’ attack of vertigo we all get when teetering on the brink of commitment. What if I put him on the spot and, failing to express what he really meant, he told me to go? That would be a disaster, for both of us. Instinct was telling me that whatever it was he wanted, me out of his life wasn’t it.

Of course, I worried this was just wishful thinking. Friends raged at me for being a doormat, for putting up with shabby emotional treatment. Yet, I couldn’t quite bring myself to draw down the final, fatal confrontation. I drifted on and the days ticked over, then the weeks, then months/ when, half a year later, I raised the subject gain, he said, ‘What? Oh, I don’t think that any more.’ And that was it. We stayed together. In the end, being passive was the best way to fight for what I wanted.

The concept of passivity – especially in relationships – reeks of inequality, of Betty Draper levels of suppressed desires, of silent weeping and brave faces. But when things stop working, I’d say passivity is your friend. You might curl your lip, call me weak, but is it weak not to demand resolutions, not to insist on airing every grievance, not to heap fuel on already-smouldering resentments? Passivity is the art of giving thins time, letting them calm down and when you find yourself the wrong target of someone else’s unhappiness or confusion – not getting dragged into the situation. I still don’t know what was up with my boyfriend, though I’m pretty sure it wasn’t really anything to do with me. But if I’d turned drama queen on him, within five second it would have been.

I can count scores of friends who have resolved relationship dilemmas by being (accidentally) passive. While figuring out what to do, they find things work themselves out. I wonder if men quite like being left to make up their own minds. Fraught and fretful as our lives are, it’s a modern women’s way to leap on the first sign of failing in our other half and wrestle their issues from them, to resolve them ourselves – by ending the relationship, if we can’t think of anything else. At least, if you’re being passive you cant be patronising. It gives our partners time to think. Not communicating seems to get the message through.

It works other places, too. Take work, for example. Beyond the basic requirements of turning up, doing your best, and going for opportunities when they arise, is taking your foot off the pedal such a bad thing? Is there any need to shout about your ambition, to air every run-in with a colleague and – most crucially – to despair over every failure. I dread to think of the energy I used in my younger years wailing over my unfulfilled potential and the iniquitous rise of less-talented colleagues. Now, I do my best at my job, let the rest of it wash over me, barely think about where I’ll be in five years’ time and trust that it will sort itself out. The minute I started doing that, of course, my career started running more smoothly. Probably because I’m not a sullen, bitchy colleague any more, obsessed with my portion of the pie and who else has been nibbling at it.

There’s a feeling that passivity is a quality best suited to shy little girls hiding behind their mothers’ skirts. But, in fact, isn’t it the more mature approach? Think of the desperate wannabes on Big Brother. With their ‘I speak my mind’ and ‘I don’t put up with disrespect’, they’re the very opposite of passive. And where does it get them? Screaming their insecurities and low self-esteem into each other’s faces, no one can hear anything for all the noise. As Laura Munson said in her interview the Time magazine, ‘We live in such a reactionary society that we think, in order to be powerful, we need to fight. That’s a shame.’

Our self-obsession has reached such heights that our first thought when anything happens is ‘how do I react?’, as if only our reaction matters, as if action is imperative. What’s so wrong with inaction?

It seems barely permissible anymore. In her essay ‘Welcome to Cancerland’, the American writer Barbara Ehrenreich talks about how a breast-cancer sufferer must describe her illness in active terms – she is fighting, battling, surviving. If you say you just want to sit back and let the doctors do what they will, you’re not doing it right, says Ehrenreich. Even a cancer patient can’t be passive, it seems.

But there is power in passivity. Being passive doesn’t mean not stating your preference. It means recognising situation where your input isn’t needed, where it might actually be unhelpful. In relationships, it means not engaging in someone else’s psychodrama, nor giving oxygen to your own. And let’s not forget, at the heart of passivity is a little bit of aggression. What Munson did to her husband – and did I do this to my boyfriend, too? – is say, ‘Sorry, you’re not pinning this one on me’ and leave him to work it out. Passivity leaves people guessing, it deflects the issue back at them, and leaves you out of it.

Is it easy? Of course not. We’re all inured in the 21st-century cult of self-expression, the belief that nothing in the world deserves to be heard more than the thought that is currently drifting across out frontal cortex. Your feminist instincts will cry out. And is it painful, just to bite your lip and wait? Oh yes. But since when did that romantic notion, ‘ If only he knew how much I cared’, ever prove to be true? I’m not suggesting you sign up for a lifetime of servitude but, for a few months at least, the next time that nothing’s going right – do nothing.

A Dandy Accessory

Men’s brooches : A Fashionable Trend for Autumn Winter 2010

In comparison to the utter volume of accessories available in the women’s market, in complete contrast, there really aren’t all that many fashion accessories for men. And of those that do exist, quite often they are heavily associated with a sub-culture or movement that you may simply just not be interested in associating yourself with. Brooches for men are, however, one of the few men's accessories which can cross the sub-culture divides, are perfect for both Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter seasons, and are slowly making a come-back, Lord knows anything dandy and I’m likely to be all over it.

The Styles


As if taking their cues from the Cool Britannia revival, the most popular of men's brooches take their cues from vintage Anglo-Saxon, English and Scottish brooches, and old-world motifs such as stag heads.

Where To Buy

The men's brooches from the above picture are available from the likes of Urweg and Cooper-Hewitt.

If you're after a brooch from the Autumn/Winter 2010 men's collections then Yves Saint Laurent, John Varvatos, and Paul Smith all had offerings amongst their collections:

You also can’t beat brooches of the vintage kind (although vintage is a slightly taboo word for me right now.. more to follow on that); However, if it is vintage brooches you are searching for, turn to both vintage stores and eBay – just be prepared to spend a decent amount of time searching to find the perfect one. This isn’t a trend you can dip into; you’ll need serious commitment to find the perfect one.

Inspiration

If men's brooches are something you're looking to invest in, browse my inspiration board below.

Inspired by the work of Daniel P Dykes

Photos from style.com

For King and Country

Men's Military Fashion Trend 2010.

Introducing the Autumn / Winter 2010 evolution of the men's military clothing trend. (Fabulous! Who can resist a man in uniform anyway?!)

Thankfully (in my opinion) the 1980s fashion revival appears, for now, to be coming to a close. However, the revival on earlier periods, particularly the 1930s and 1940s, remains popular (Huzzah!)

Nevertheless, don’t quite get rid of those military inspired pieces, which have been influencing wardrobes of the fervent fashionista, from the past two years. Evolve them. Play down the over-the-top glam pieces taken directly from the 80s, and impart the classic military look with something far more historical, making the look far more relevant to 2010/2011 fashion.

The men's military fashion trend is nothing new to us, interestingly, looking back over fashion history, when the world is caught in war; fashion’s have reflected this by military influence style. Revived in 2008/2009 as part of a larger 1980s revival it had, the flamboyant style popularized by the likes of Adam Ant. This is not the case for Autumn 2010. Inspiration no longer coming from the 1980s, but to a generation when men were men, fashion has taken to the Second World War for stimulation. An era of rationing, clean cuts, functionality, and, of course, the dapper gentleman off to fight for King and Country.

Key Pieces

If you intend to indulge in the 2010 / 2011 interpretation of the men's military fashion trend (and I think you should!) there are two key pieces you'll need:

A greatcoat.

Colour choices here sit strongest with Army green and Navy / Air Force navy hues. The greatcoat can be single or double-breasted, and should be detailed with brass buttons. For genuine authenticity, find some antique buttons, on eBay or in vintage/second hand shops and pull out a needle and thread (or ask a friend very nicely)

However, there is always the option to purchase a vintage piece and have the cut altered accordingly. Further, the greatcoat can be belted or unbelted: it needs only to have a fitted waist.

However, please, please resist the temptation to buy an actual military coat, there are plenty of beautiful military inspired pieces and the current indie boys wandering around in their military (particularly Royal Marine) jackets look like they are either trying to recreate The Beatles Sgt. Pepper look, or are going to a fancy dress party. Neither of which is appreciated. Especially by the Royal Marines (one I know in particular it really hacks off…)

Aviator boots with shearling

It is worth mentioning that although shearling can also be applied to the collar of a greatcoat or an aviator jacket, it is worth noting that wearing both together, you're likely to be trending towards the fighter ace look, rather than a beautiful fashion inspired look.

Just to reiterate: Be cautious with the military trend, it is easy to move into the realm of costuming: being on trend doesn't translate to looking like you're off to a fancy dress party.

Designers to Look Toward

On the Autumn 2010 catwalks there is one designer who reigned supreme when it came to this new interpretation of the men's military fashion trend: Christopher Bailey. His work for the Burberry Autumn 2010 catwalk was second to none.

New pieces aside, don't forget that the Second World War was almost in the middle of the last century. Therefore, it's not all that hard to find vintage pieces from that era to infuse into your wardrobe.

Inspired by the work of Daniel P Dykes

Photos from Style.com