Monday, 16 August 2010

Keep Calm and Carry On

Quite possibly the best article I have read all year, from this months Elle, by Alice Wignall. Good advice if you can take it, hard to follow, but worthwhile in the end? I guess that would depend on your overall objectives.


Passivity: It works. But would you let him call the shots?

It sounds pathetic and smacks of being a ‘surrendered girlfriend’, but taking a passive stance might be the best relationship trick you ever learn.

It’s a nightmare scenario. Quite literally, in fact, the person you love turning around and saying that, on reflection, they’re not sure they feel the same way you do. It is the kind of stomach-churning spectre that haunts our dark and midnight hours, that will usually vanish in the glare of rational morning light. But, when insomnia strikes and your imagination turns over this vision, how do you believe you’d react? Would you call him a loser, tell him he doesn’t know a good thing when he sees it and leave the first chance you could, taking your dignity with you? Would you cry, beg, try to make him see the error of his ways?

Or would you just do nothing? That’s what Laura Munson did. One day, the man she’d been with for 20 years, her husband and the father of her children, told her that he didn’t love her and was going to leave her. Her reaction? She told him she didn’t buy it, that he should take some time and effectively ignored any further attempts to raise the subject. He went AWOL for a few months, then gradually started to reintegrate with his family’s life. Six months on, their marriage was healed.

Munson, a writer; contributed an essay on her relationship tactic to The New York Times. It was the top-read article for days following publication; the most-searched for feature for two months. It crashed the website’s comment section. She secured a book deal and the result – This is Not the Story You Think it is… A Season of Unlikely Happiness (Amy Einhorn Books) – has got commentators from Oprah to Newsweek to Time magazine asking: is doing nothing the new way to get what you want?

Instinctively, I want to say no. I want to believe in the modern model of empowered womanhood – a hybrid of Destiny’s Child songs, Tyra Banks attitude and Sex and the City – which tells us we’re worth it that we can do anything if we put our minds to it, that we should be worshipped all the livelong day and anything less than that is simply unacceptable.

But then I look at my own life, and I know it’s not that simple. For Laura Munson and I have something in common. In my case, I had been with the man in question for only a year or so, not married, no kids. But still, there was never a good time to hear what he was trying to tell me: that, though things were fine, though I hadn’t done anything wrong, he just didn’t see us together long term.

What did I do? I went out that evening, got drunk with my best friend, went back to m flat, got up the next day, went to work and didn’t mention it again. When faced with the biggest calamity of my romantic life to date – for I was very much in love – I was utterly passive. I did nothing.

This wasn’t a clever game plan. I was scared. Scared that if I raised the subject again, I’d meet the ultimate rejection: ‘We definitely should split up.” I was also scared that by over-reacting – or just plain reacting – by crying or screaming or demanding resolutions, I’d push him into a position from which there was no way back. Because there was something else that Munson and I had in common: like her, I just didn’t buy it. I was aware that he was trying to express confusion or uncertainty, perhaps that same ‘Hold on, am I sure about this?’ attack of vertigo we all get when teetering on the brink of commitment. What if I put him on the spot and, failing to express what he really meant, he told me to go? That would be a disaster, for both of us. Instinct was telling me that whatever it was he wanted, me out of his life wasn’t it.

Of course, I worried this was just wishful thinking. Friends raged at me for being a doormat, for putting up with shabby emotional treatment. Yet, I couldn’t quite bring myself to draw down the final, fatal confrontation. I drifted on and the days ticked over, then the weeks, then months/ when, half a year later, I raised the subject gain, he said, ‘What? Oh, I don’t think that any more.’ And that was it. We stayed together. In the end, being passive was the best way to fight for what I wanted.

The concept of passivity – especially in relationships – reeks of inequality, of Betty Draper levels of suppressed desires, of silent weeping and brave faces. But when things stop working, I’d say passivity is your friend. You might curl your lip, call me weak, but is it weak not to demand resolutions, not to insist on airing every grievance, not to heap fuel on already-smouldering resentments? Passivity is the art of giving thins time, letting them calm down and when you find yourself the wrong target of someone else’s unhappiness or confusion – not getting dragged into the situation. I still don’t know what was up with my boyfriend, though I’m pretty sure it wasn’t really anything to do with me. But if I’d turned drama queen on him, within five second it would have been.

I can count scores of friends who have resolved relationship dilemmas by being (accidentally) passive. While figuring out what to do, they find things work themselves out. I wonder if men quite like being left to make up their own minds. Fraught and fretful as our lives are, it’s a modern women’s way to leap on the first sign of failing in our other half and wrestle their issues from them, to resolve them ourselves – by ending the relationship, if we can’t think of anything else. At least, if you’re being passive you cant be patronising. It gives our partners time to think. Not communicating seems to get the message through.

It works other places, too. Take work, for example. Beyond the basic requirements of turning up, doing your best, and going for opportunities when they arise, is taking your foot off the pedal such a bad thing? Is there any need to shout about your ambition, to air every run-in with a colleague and – most crucially – to despair over every failure. I dread to think of the energy I used in my younger years wailing over my unfulfilled potential and the iniquitous rise of less-talented colleagues. Now, I do my best at my job, let the rest of it wash over me, barely think about where I’ll be in five years’ time and trust that it will sort itself out. The minute I started doing that, of course, my career started running more smoothly. Probably because I’m not a sullen, bitchy colleague any more, obsessed with my portion of the pie and who else has been nibbling at it.

There’s a feeling that passivity is a quality best suited to shy little girls hiding behind their mothers’ skirts. But, in fact, isn’t it the more mature approach? Think of the desperate wannabes on Big Brother. With their ‘I speak my mind’ and ‘I don’t put up with disrespect’, they’re the very opposite of passive. And where does it get them? Screaming their insecurities and low self-esteem into each other’s faces, no one can hear anything for all the noise. As Laura Munson said in her interview the Time magazine, ‘We live in such a reactionary society that we think, in order to be powerful, we need to fight. That’s a shame.’

Our self-obsession has reached such heights that our first thought when anything happens is ‘how do I react?’, as if only our reaction matters, as if action is imperative. What’s so wrong with inaction?

It seems barely permissible anymore. In her essay ‘Welcome to Cancerland’, the American writer Barbara Ehrenreich talks about how a breast-cancer sufferer must describe her illness in active terms – she is fighting, battling, surviving. If you say you just want to sit back and let the doctors do what they will, you’re not doing it right, says Ehrenreich. Even a cancer patient can’t be passive, it seems.

But there is power in passivity. Being passive doesn’t mean not stating your preference. It means recognising situation where your input isn’t needed, where it might actually be unhelpful. In relationships, it means not engaging in someone else’s psychodrama, nor giving oxygen to your own. And let’s not forget, at the heart of passivity is a little bit of aggression. What Munson did to her husband – and did I do this to my boyfriend, too? – is say, ‘Sorry, you’re not pinning this one on me’ and leave him to work it out. Passivity leaves people guessing, it deflects the issue back at them, and leaves you out of it.

Is it easy? Of course not. We’re all inured in the 21st-century cult of self-expression, the belief that nothing in the world deserves to be heard more than the thought that is currently drifting across out frontal cortex. Your feminist instincts will cry out. And is it painful, just to bite your lip and wait? Oh yes. But since when did that romantic notion, ‘ If only he knew how much I cared’, ever prove to be true? I’m not suggesting you sign up for a lifetime of servitude but, for a few months at least, the next time that nothing’s going right – do nothing.

A Dandy Accessory

Men’s brooches : A Fashionable Trend for Autumn Winter 2010

In comparison to the utter volume of accessories available in the women’s market, in complete contrast, there really aren’t all that many fashion accessories for men. And of those that do exist, quite often they are heavily associated with a sub-culture or movement that you may simply just not be interested in associating yourself with. Brooches for men are, however, one of the few men's accessories which can cross the sub-culture divides, are perfect for both Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter seasons, and are slowly making a come-back, Lord knows anything dandy and I’m likely to be all over it.

The Styles


As if taking their cues from the Cool Britannia revival, the most popular of men's brooches take their cues from vintage Anglo-Saxon, English and Scottish brooches, and old-world motifs such as stag heads.

Where To Buy

The men's brooches from the above picture are available from the likes of Urweg and Cooper-Hewitt.

If you're after a brooch from the Autumn/Winter 2010 men's collections then Yves Saint Laurent, John Varvatos, and Paul Smith all had offerings amongst their collections:

You also can’t beat brooches of the vintage kind (although vintage is a slightly taboo word for me right now.. more to follow on that); However, if it is vintage brooches you are searching for, turn to both vintage stores and eBay – just be prepared to spend a decent amount of time searching to find the perfect one. This isn’t a trend you can dip into; you’ll need serious commitment to find the perfect one.

Inspiration

If men's brooches are something you're looking to invest in, browse my inspiration board below.

Inspired by the work of Daniel P Dykes

Photos from style.com

For King and Country

Men's Military Fashion Trend 2010.

Introducing the Autumn / Winter 2010 evolution of the men's military clothing trend. (Fabulous! Who can resist a man in uniform anyway?!)

Thankfully (in my opinion) the 1980s fashion revival appears, for now, to be coming to a close. However, the revival on earlier periods, particularly the 1930s and 1940s, remains popular (Huzzah!)

Nevertheless, don’t quite get rid of those military inspired pieces, which have been influencing wardrobes of the fervent fashionista, from the past two years. Evolve them. Play down the over-the-top glam pieces taken directly from the 80s, and impart the classic military look with something far more historical, making the look far more relevant to 2010/2011 fashion.

The men's military fashion trend is nothing new to us, interestingly, looking back over fashion history, when the world is caught in war; fashion’s have reflected this by military influence style. Revived in 2008/2009 as part of a larger 1980s revival it had, the flamboyant style popularized by the likes of Adam Ant. This is not the case for Autumn 2010. Inspiration no longer coming from the 1980s, but to a generation when men were men, fashion has taken to the Second World War for stimulation. An era of rationing, clean cuts, functionality, and, of course, the dapper gentleman off to fight for King and Country.

Key Pieces

If you intend to indulge in the 2010 / 2011 interpretation of the men's military fashion trend (and I think you should!) there are two key pieces you'll need:

A greatcoat.

Colour choices here sit strongest with Army green and Navy / Air Force navy hues. The greatcoat can be single or double-breasted, and should be detailed with brass buttons. For genuine authenticity, find some antique buttons, on eBay or in vintage/second hand shops and pull out a needle and thread (or ask a friend very nicely)

However, there is always the option to purchase a vintage piece and have the cut altered accordingly. Further, the greatcoat can be belted or unbelted: it needs only to have a fitted waist.

However, please, please resist the temptation to buy an actual military coat, there are plenty of beautiful military inspired pieces and the current indie boys wandering around in their military (particularly Royal Marine) jackets look like they are either trying to recreate The Beatles Sgt. Pepper look, or are going to a fancy dress party. Neither of which is appreciated. Especially by the Royal Marines (one I know in particular it really hacks off…)

Aviator boots with shearling

It is worth mentioning that although shearling can also be applied to the collar of a greatcoat or an aviator jacket, it is worth noting that wearing both together, you're likely to be trending towards the fighter ace look, rather than a beautiful fashion inspired look.

Just to reiterate: Be cautious with the military trend, it is easy to move into the realm of costuming: being on trend doesn't translate to looking like you're off to a fancy dress party.

Designers to Look Toward

On the Autumn 2010 catwalks there is one designer who reigned supreme when it came to this new interpretation of the men's military fashion trend: Christopher Bailey. His work for the Burberry Autumn 2010 catwalk was second to none.

New pieces aside, don't forget that the Second World War was almost in the middle of the last century. Therefore, it's not all that hard to find vintage pieces from that era to infuse into your wardrobe.

Inspired by the work of Daniel P Dykes

Photos from Style.com

Saturday, 31 July 2010

Autumn Winter 2010 Trends

New Restraint

Pure, unadulterated style is achieved this season by paring simplicity and luxury to elegant effect.

Look for minimalist pieces in luxe fabrics made for grown-up women. Granted, these looks may not instantly grab attention, but isn’t that where the beauty lies.

Matt leather, double-faced cashmere and sumptuous silk are the fabrics of choice for this style. Effortless, unfussy looks that don’t require a complicated set of style rules. But just in case,

1- - don’t stray from the strict palette of black, navy, camel, grey and white,

2- - don’t be tempted to over-accessorise – less is infinitely more this autumn.

Best designers to look toward for inspiration on this trend are Céline, Bottega Veneta and Stella McCartney



All Woman

Autumn’s retro dressing is a tribute to the female form – all tiny waists, full hips and bountiful bosoms.

Designers have embraced a nostalgic aesthetic that delights in its celebration of womanliness. Wasp-waisted circle skirts (or smart pencil skirts) and prom dresses abound. Demurely buttoned to the collar or sweet balcony corsetry are used to best display an ample bust.

To accessorise? Ladylike additions such as elbow-length leather gloves and framed handbags.

The designers who did it best – Prada, Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten

For pencil skirts, look toward Marc Jacobs and Dolce and Gabbana



Pretty Poetress

Meet this season’s style heroine: her paper-thin frocks in dusty hues and faded florals have a dreamy, bookish charm.

Autumn’s new bohemian look has a decidedly literary bent. From artist smocks and wispy silk slips to floor-trailing floral dresses layered over long-sleeve knits – together these pieces are an ode to sweet naivety and old-fashioned romance, accessorise with librarian-chic specs, woolly socks and sensible shoes.

Look to Ralph Lauren, Fendi and Paul Smith for the best inspiration on this style



Grunge Glamour

Slouchy knits plus elegant evening skirts: it’s a modern mash-up.

The big news in eveningwear? A floor-sweeping skirt paired with a sweater. Abiding by fashion’s high/low laws, this look strikes the ideal glamour/grunge balance. Of course, it helps that you only need invest in a sensational skirt – the knit should be an old favourite.

Best designers for this trend were Dries Van Noten, Marc Jacobs and Richard Nicoll



Camel Coats vs Perfect Parkas

The uptown classic, effortlessly elegant vs the downtown classic, mixing mod cool and utilitarian chic.

For the camel classic, it comes with endless variety, from the lightest buff to dark toffee, experiment against your skin tone and throw your new coat over a crisp white or denim shirt and cinch with an aged brown leather belt.

For edgy urban glamour, from an inexpensive army-surplus jacket to Burberry’s shearling-lined triumph (at a mere £1895, a bargain!) The most practical pieces, serve to be your best investment this season.

For camel coat inspiration look to Hermes, Aquascutum and Gucci

And for perfect parkas look to Burberry Prorsum, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Margaret Howell



pictures from Style.com

Inspired by Vogue Catwalk Report

Autumn Winter 2010 Micro Trends

Colour Bomb

Prepare to be blown away by an explosion of colour; this season’s collections exhumed breathtaking brights. Colour blocked, unexpected clashing and varying tones of the same hue.

Balenciaga Fall 2010 Ready-to-WearVersace Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

Balenciaga

Versace


Dressing-Up Box

Forget every fashion rule you have ever learnt – autumn’s most flamboyant trend is about colour, chaos and creativity. Let fun and frivolity inspire you this Autumn.

Christian Dior Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Christian Dior Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

Christian Dior

(possibly my favourite of the A/W shows - Galliano never fails to astound me)


Winter White Fur

Shaggy cuts and shrug-on styles give this winter’s furs – both real and fake – a laidback, rock ‘n’ roll edge (I'll let you decide on the real or fake debate...)

Véronique Leroy Fall 2010 Ready-to-WearMarni Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

Veronique Leroy

Marni


Romantic Lace

From sweetly pretty day dresses to sensual see-through gowns and blouses, fashion has fallen in love with lace. From all over lace, to lace shirts or just lace panels - lets get lacy!

Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Roberto Cavalli Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

Dolce and Gabbana

Roberto Cavalli


The Cape

Practicality (easy, cosy and comfy) meets theatricality (see Givenchy) in this season’s favourite cover up. Unleash your inner crime fighter and go wild.

Givenchy Fall 2010 Ready-to-WearPorts 1961 Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

Givenchy

Ports 1961


Terrific Trousers

Abandon hard-to-wear harems and slouchy sweatpants: the new trousers are easy, elegant and above all flattering. Look to vintage 40's styles for a grown-up sophisticated look.

In complete contrast, ankle exposing cigarette trousers are the other big trouser story this Autumn. Works fabulously as the bottom half for tuxedo suit.

3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2010 Ready-to-WearDsquared² Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear

3.1 Phillip Lim

Dsquared


photos from Style.com

writing inspired by Vogue Catwalk report

Thursday, 29 July 2010

Today was sponsored by the letter ‘M’

Ok, although it was a few weeks ago (Thursday July 8th, to be exact!) that I actually went, I have been seriously slow on updating my blog… again, but insane shifts and all nighters at work have slightly taken precedent over everything else!

After reading about the Martin Marigela exhibition in Dazed that was to be held at Somerset House, I made a deal with myself (the best kind!) that this would be one exhibition I would not miss.

And what better opportunity than to combine my visit with the opening show at the Summer Series, which was headlined by the one and only Mystery Jets.

The Martin Marigela exhibition was in a beautiful space at the back of the house and down in the basement. With some really wonderful pieces, including old invitations to the Fashion Week shows as well as garments and shoes, it was a really inspiring and interesting exhibition to walk around.

Some interesting ideas including covering the models and some pieces so that they were unrecognisable and unbranded down to the finer details in which the labels are sewn into the garments.

There were some really beautiful pieces, which led me to miss designing and making and really inspired me to pick it back up again (I am getting withdrawal symptoms after less than a month since finishing uni!) there were beautiful cuts and panelling details, and beautiful fabrics used to add extra to the creation.

However, whilst I was walking around the exhibition, it really reminded me of the Victor and Rolf exhibition at the Barbican a few years ago, which was simply amazing and as much as I enjoyed the exhibition of Marigela. No exhibition will ever be able to beat the Victor and Rolf one for me. Their creativity and design aesthetic is second to none. In my opinion, they are the original crazy designers, with weird design ideas, and ideas that make you think about clothing, not just see a nice garment.

After that, I walked back to the square in the middle of the venue to see the Mystery Jets open the Somerset House festival. It was simply amazing. Not the first time I have seen these boys play and it will definitely not be the last. They have some really unique sounds and ideas; every album they come out with betters the last. With heart breaking lyrics and interesting sounds they really come alive when you watch them on the stage.

The Mystery Jets really have a lot to answer to on my present musical obsessions, it was a few years ago now when I first listened to Two Doors Down and instantly fell in love with their style. I researched more and discovered Young Love, which features Laura Marling. I instantly fell in love with her voice and looked in to her music more, which led to finding the likes of Johnny Flynn and Jay Jay Pistolet. 4 bands, who I could most definitely not live without, and who I’m sure will never be taken off my iPod.

Not only was Twenty One an album of my summer last year, it was forever being played, now whenever I listen it always brings back superb memories but hearing the boys play the tracks again, led to an immense evening, which started out with The Tribe and Connan Mockasin, both of who were good, personally I enjoyed Connan Mockasin slightly more, as they were a more tight band and they fit together in the line up really well. They also had a really interesting and unique sound.

An amazing evening, at an amazing venue, I don’t know if its just me, but there is something about watching a gig outside, especially in a venue like Somerset House, where technically you are inside a building. It set the atmosphere amazingly for the gig and the boys certainly did nothing to disappoint. They played a brilliant mix of old and new tracks and even a short cover of a Lady Gaga track. Long may the Mystery Jets continue making music.



Catching a Tiger

This is ever so slightly in the wrong order, I am in the process of writing a blog on a visit to Somerset House to see the Martin Marigelia Exhibition and the Mystery Jets, but somehow this one appears to have taken precedent… however, I digress…


Last night, in a rather stupidly excited state, I headed to London town to see one of my new favourite musicians, Lissie at the ICA.

Having just arrived in London, we checked out the venue and whilst wandering past I saw her outside having a cigarette (well how else would she perfect the beautiful edge to her voice?!) and had to go and say hello. She was absolutely lovely and was very excited about playing the show. Bonus.

We entered the theatre, which was an intimate venue and suited the event perfectly.

The evening began with four boys and their four guitars. Looking like they had mistakenly fallen out of a time machine. A throwback from the seventies. They began to play. The sound so powerful and their harmonies so beautiful they easily rivalled the likes of The Fleet Foxes and Mumford and Sons.

Their music was so beautifully and passionately played that you could tell they won over the hearts of the crowd instantly.

The four boys in Kassidy (the name of this awesome band, by the way) fit so perfectly together in style, in sound and in passion. They appeared to be genuinely humbled by the appreciation of the audience, which is in itself humbling to witness.

It is not often that I will go straight home from a gig and download an EP of a band I have just seen without first finding out a little more about them. However, this is testament to just how amazing they were, if my iPhone battery was not such a fail, I would have downloaded it then and there (the joys of modern technology!) It is just as wonderful (although there is always something special about seeing a band live) and has captured the magic of this truly unique band.

My only criticisms, if I had to be picky, were the microphones were up slightly too high in my opinion, the sound of the EP is so perfect and they could have achieved just as awesome an atmosphere without the booming sound. Also it would be nice to see the boys with a drummer, however, that might ruin the aesthetic of the band.

In spite of me, being picky for the sake of it, it is blindly obvious these boys are seriously talented, with voices that were fabulously harmonic and glided through the room smoother than warm caramel. I eagerly anticipate the arrival of their album.

Kassidy


A few minutes later and out came a tiny framed, beautiful and vulnerable looking girl. Lissie. Then she started to sing. All thoughts of vulnerability were shot to pieces. The power in her voice is simply immense. With a power to melt even the coldest hearts, her beautiful lyrics, wonderful rifts and astounding voice were able to make you forget instantly where you were and be transported to another world.

Her sweet explanations of family history made you feel and understand her passion for her music even more and made you fall in love with the tracks that bit harder. And call me old fashioned, but its so refreshing to hear an artist who doesn’t use crass language throughout their music or show, someone who actually has a grasp of the English language and uses it to make spine tingling, beautiful music.

However, enough of me ranting, back to the music – Lissie has an amazing voice and a very talented set of musicians playing with her, who again all appeared very humbled by the effect they had on the audience. I know arrogance is supposed to stream in music, but it is nice to see that there are some genuine, level headed artists out there.

The encore came, far too quickly, and out came Lissie, with a very special friend. Ellie Goulding. After their collaboration at the Great Escape in Brighton earlier this year, it appeared they were set to perform together again. Much to the crowd’s delight. Not having really heard much of Ellie’s music, I was extremely impressed by her voice and she is clearly another talented girl. They sang Patty Griffin’s Making Pies, whilst Ellie played it was astoundingly beautiful. And finally time for the last song, a fabulous cover of Lionel Ritchie’s Hello. In Lissie’s true bluesy country style, which had the whole crowd singing along.

Lissie


Overall, it was an amazing, no frills evening that was absolutely as it should be – all about the music.

Two (three?) amazing groups, who I will most definitely make the effort to see in the future!